Fitted carpet cleaning
Pre-vacuum, pH-matched pre-spray, hot water extraction with an acidic rinse, groom and dry. Traffic lanes, stairs and landings included, not charged as extras.
Residential division
Professional cleaning for Gauteng homes
Wool broadloom, hand-knotted rugs, upholstery, leather furniture and mattresses, cleaned by technicians who identify the fibre before they choose a method. In Gauteng homes since 1985.
WoolSafe Approved
Safe on wool, by independent test
Why it matters
Most carpet damage is done by cleaning, not by living
Shrinkage, delamination, brown wicking marks that appear two days later, wool that has gone hard and yellow. Nearly all of it comes from too much water, the wrong pH, or a machine used on a fibre it was never meant for.
- Fibre identified first. Wool, nylon, polypropylene, viscose and silk all behave differently in water.
- WoolSafe-approved chemistry. pH-safe on wool, low residue, independently tested, not just "gentle" on the label.
- Moisture controlled. We put in what we can take out, so your rooms are back in use the same day.
- An honest answer. If a mark is permanent dye loss rather than soil, you hear it before we quote, not after.
Residential services
Our residential services
Book a single service, or combine them in one visit. That usually works out cheaper and dries faster.
Oriental & fine rugs
Collected from your home and washed at our Chloorkop plant. Persian, Afghan, Kashmiri, kilim, silk and viscose. Each one is dusted, dye-tested and dried flat.
Upholstery
Lounge suites, dining chairs, headboards and scatter cushions. Fabric tested in a hidden seam first, because linen and viscose blends will not take what a nylon weave will.
Leather cleaning
Cleaned, conditioned and re-protected. We identify aniline, semi-aniline and pigmented finishes first, the wrong product on unfinished leather is not recoverable.
Mattress cleaning
Deep extraction plus a dust-mite and allergen treatment. Worth doing if anyone in the house wakes up congested. Dry in hours.
MasterGuard protection
Applied after cleaning while the fibre is open. Spills bead on top instead of soaking in, which buys you the minute it takes to fetch a cloth.
Wool carpets and rugs
Wool carpets and rugs are the single easiest thing in a home to ruin with a cheap clean. As a WoolSafe Approved Service Provider we use independently tested products and a WoolSafe-qualified technician, which is exactly what wool warranties tend to ask for.
Fine rugs
A valuable rug should not be cleaned in your lounge
An in-home wand pass over a hand-knotted rug leaves most of the grit in the foundation and risks bleeding the dyes into the wool. Rugs that matter come back to the plant.
- Inspect and photograph, pre-existing wear, fringe damage and previous repairs recorded before we start.
- Dust, dry soil beaten and vacuumed out of the foundation. This is the step that separates a wash from a rinse.
- Dye test, every colour checked for bleed. Unstable dyes change the wash method, not the price.
- Wash, full immersion or controlled surface wash, pH matched to the fibre.
- Dry flat, in a controlled room, so the rug does not cockle, curl or shrink.
- Groom and deliver, pile set, fringes finished, back to your door.
Expect seven working days. A same-day turnaround on a hand-knotted rug means the dusting stage has been skipped.
Step two: dusting
This came out of one rug, and it came out dry
Up to 80% of what a rug is holding is dry grit. No amount of washing will lift it.
A vacuum takes the loose surface soil. It does not reach the sand that has worked its way down the pile and settled against the foundation, which is where most of a rug's weight in dirt actually sits. Getting that out needs the rug worked from the back.
Ours goes over a duster: rotating brushes and beater bars vibrate the foundation while the pile hangs free, and the grit drops out onto a tray underneath. On a rug that has been down in a family lounge for a few years, that tray fills up.
It matters for two reasons. Wet a gritty rug and the dry soil becomes mud that sets deeper into the foundation — the rug comes back looking clean and feeling stiff. And grit is abrasive: sand at the base of the pile has cut edges, and every footstep grinds it against the wool. Dusting is as much about how long the rug lasts as about how it looks next week.
Before
After
The same fringe, before and after. The rug arrived like this from a previous cleaner.
Colour restoration
Bringing the colour back is a different job from taking the dirt out
Two separate things make a rug look tired. Soil sitting on and in the pile, which a proper wash removes. And dye that has moved somewhere it does not belong, which a wash will not touch — and which the wrong wash will spread further.
Dye bleed and colour run
The usual version is a red or navy field running into a white cotton fringe or into an adjacent cream border. It happens when a rug is cleaned by somebody who did not dye-test it first, when it is over-wet, or when it is left lying damp. Once the cotton has taken that colour, ordinary washing will never shift it. It has to be drawn back out chemically, worked a section at a time, at a strength that lifts the loose dye and leaves the dye that belongs in the wool alone.
What we can and cannot bring back
Migrated dye, yellowing from age or damp, and the grey cast that soil leaves on a pale ground all usually come back. Sun-faded wool along the edge that sat in a window, dye stripped out by household bleach, and fibre that has been scorched or crushed flat are permanent changes to the wool itself. We test first and tell you which of the three you are looking at before we quote, rather than after we have your rug.
Recent work
Before and after
BeforeAfter
BeforeAfter
BeforeAfter
BeforeAfter
What to expect
A RugMaster visit, start to finish
Move what matters
We shift the light furniture. Anything fragile or very heavy, please clear beforehand.
Walk the rooms with you
You point out the marks that bother you. We tell you which ones will lift and which will not.
Test, pre-treat, clean
Fibre and dye tests, then the method that suits them. Windows open, air movers on.
Back in use the same day
Four to six hours to dry in normal weather. Walk on it in clean socks before then if you must.
Protection, if you want it
MasterGuard goes on last, while the fibre is still open. Optional, and quoted separately.
We follow up
If something wicks back after drying, tell us. Coming back to sort it out is part of the job.
Home cleaning FAQs
Frequently asked questions
Still unsure? Send a photo on WhatsApp and we will tell you what we think.
How often should carpets be professionally cleaned?
Once a year for an average household, every six months with pets, small children or allergies. Vacuuming twice a week between visits does more for the life of a carpet than anything else you can do.
Is it safe around pets and babies?
Yes. The WoolSafe approval we hold is partly about residue: approved products rinse out rather than leaving a sticky film behind. Keep pets off the carpet while it dries, mostly so they do not re-soil it.
Do you move furniture?
We move light and medium items and put them back on protectors. Beds, wall units, pianos and anything with glass, please clear beforehand, or we will clean around them.
Why did a stain come back a few days later?
That is wicking. The spill soaked through to the backing, and as the carpet dries it draws that residue back up the fibre. It is fixable, call us and we will re-treat that spot.
Can you get pet urine out?
The smell, usually, with an enzyme treatment that reaches the backing and underlay. The dye damage, sometimes not: urine is alkaline and strips colour from wool permanently. We will show you the difference before we quote.
Do you charge per room or per square metre?
Per square metre for carpets, per piece for rugs and upholstery. Per-room pricing is imprecise, and it penalises smaller homes.
Residential quotes
Request a quote
We quote for homes over the phone. Rough room sizes are enough to get you a number.